Mongol Rally 2012 – Day 3 – Getting wasted at a castle

Ravi – Frankfurt is a slick, modern city that outdid itself on the drive in the night before. Its gleaming skyscrapers disguise the age and history of the city – none of which we were able to explore as we slept through the alarm. I stumbled out of bed first and headed down to breakfast to start writing up a blog post (not sure which one, to be honest). As I finished up, Harvey came down and we ate with Charlotte, an Aussie who we’d chatted to the night before. [Harvey: I absolutely loved Charlotte – she was from Adelaide and we had a chat about the bars and beaches of Adelaide – people from Adelaide are the best people…in the world]  Charlotte was finishing up a marathon six month tour of Europe, as Australians are prone to do, and was giving us advice on some of our future European stops. Hostels are great for this kind of thing – travellers who chat with anyone and everyone, sharing stories and warnings. Because of a small cock up with timings, we had an extra day in a few days and we were looking to fill it. Between my previous visit on a stag do, and Charlotte’s rave review, we settled on Budapest with a full itinerary and a hostel recommendation. Thanks, Charlotte!

Ben eventually surfaced (that man sleeps a LOT [Harvey: and with plenty of his boxers showing]) and while eating breakfast, he and I made up some sandwiches for the journey from the assorted breakfast foods (ham, cheese, rolls). Harvey was genuinely surprised by this as he’d never done that before; Ben, Charlotte and I were genuinely surprised at him! [Harvey: I have to admit – they were amazing – they were loving wrapped in tissue paper with rubber bands wrapped around] After discussing the ethics of taking breakfast food for lunch, we got up with sandwiches in hand, said ‘bye to Charlotte and went down to pack up the car. We’re getting better at packing up the roof rack and car, and were nearly done when Suzanne and her mother walked over from the other side of the street to ask what exactly we were doing in our tiny little purple [Harvey: It’s actually blue] car. Telling them didn’t seem to help, really – they were still pretty unbelieving (a look we’ve all become used to) and offered us good luck for our mission!

We’d arranged to convoy with Team Birdstock to Heidelberg but the boys were feeling it a little after the night before so decided to meet us at Czechout, the huge European launch party in the Czech Republic that everyone was heading to. And with that, we left Frankfurt (far too soon) and were bound for Heidelberg, the “most German city you will ever see” according to Harvey. And, actually, he might have been right – of the two German cities I’ve now seen, it’s certainly the more German! Heidelberg is a university town with a castle set in a forested hillside, and houses that look like they belong in a snow globe. It is very picturesque and, according to our resident Heidelberg expert [Harvey: me], has the “best kebap shop in the world” – can you see a theme developing?

In Heidelberg, we walked around the streets and took in the glorious afternoon sunshine while wolfing down a (Turkish) kebab from the aforementioned best-kebab-shop-in-the-world. Harvey rated it 10/10, naturally. Ben said it was 8.5/10 but would do better to call itself a burrito. I was mildly impressed after all the hype (7/10) [Harvey: I should add that Ravi only had one bite – the cabbagy bit – it wasn’t representative] but I can conclusively say the best kebab shop in the world is the Shahi Kebab House on Soho Road in Birmingham [Harvey:  Agreed]. Get the chicken kebab (not doner) – you won’t regret it! On the way back to the car, we picked up some cigarettes (because apparently trading a cigarette can get you far in Central Asia) and…some bruschetta dipping oil. We’re really not going to be rushed out of the comfortable Grand Tour of Europe portion of our trip! Now, we just need a quick stop off in Italy to pick up some bruschetta…

Klatovy was a four hour drive away but with a bit of confusion and keeping to 60mph, we didn’t get there until after 11pm. I should, at this point, explain what’s about to come. The UK launch at Goodwood on Saturday was family friendly, in the daylight and an awesome emotional send off. Czechout was in the dark, in an old Czech castle in the middle of nowhere with meat, drink, no families and 300 lunatic teams of Ralliers. You can guess what’s coming. The theme for the festivities was Carnival of the Macabre, and the three of us got into the spirit of the night (but we were in the minority).

Harvey – We were quite obviously the last people to arrive. For some reason everyone on the rally seemed to be quicker than us – and for me personally, I was a little disappointed that we had arrived so late and got so lost. We managed to find a spare bit of field (which was on a slope) and pitched our tents using the rally lights on the car to illuminate the pitch. Right now – it’s day 7 and I feel quite perky and energetic – but back then we were all tired as none of us were used to the dodgy beds and long days in the car. So to relax, we thought we would crack open some beers – but quickly realised – we had no bottle opener. Ben used some side cutters and managed not to open the bottle top – but crack the bottle instead.

After a quick celebration drink at getting to the campsite, we ascended to the castle and got ready to party (which you can read about in its own post)

Mongol Rally 2012 – Day 2 – Smashing the Ring

Ravi – Day 1 could have been considered a failure, as we didn’t get where we were supposed to. But no! The Rally is about (admittedly, incredibly comfortable) adaptation and we certainly adapted! At some point on this trip, that will mean camping up somewhere but we decided that could wait till another day! We needed our beauty sleep, because today we were taking on the Nürburgring. But I’ll get to that in a mo! We went to sleep in Brugge, and appeared to wake up in the late ’80s…our hotel was definitely a little dated! But the sleep was good and the food was good, so we got through our continental breakfast and got into the car for Day 2.

I’ve never been to Germany (or Belgium) so I didn’t know what to expect. But the first thing to say is that both countries appear to be very green – loads of trees lining the motorways, and in Germany the trees turn into huge forests. Germany also has really good roads. I suppose it has to, since everyone hurtles along at over 100 mph – the speed unlimited Autobahns hold a special place in the hearts of drivers, but being in it in a Micra with the accelerating power of a shopping trolley was a pretty hairy experience! Should I take this overtake? I know I’ve got a mile of clear space behind me but I think that Mercedes might crash into the back of me while I’m trying to get past this lorry. To their credit, the Germans didn’t have road rage. To their discredit, they didn’t even look towards our car or smile at us. Bad Germans…

Approaching the Nürburgring the roads got smaller and hillier and, bizarrely, there seemed to be a huge number of trucks coming in the other direction. Were we in the right place?! Suddenly, the trucks were replaced by super cars and we knew we were nearly there! We passed a massive (and packed) camp site on the final approach before turning off to the offices of RSR Nürburg. These guys say they will give you a supercharged car and instruction to make the most out of your time at the ‘ring. What they don’t say is that they first scare the living hell out of you with the most frightening safety video I’ve ever seen! We went into the briefing room, excited but a tad apprehensive. Harvey has done this track hundreds of times on Gran Turismo 5 and knows every corner well. The first thing the safety briefer says? “This is nothing like the game”

Jonathan, our cheery Kiwi safety briefer, then went on to tell us about the history of the track and some vital stats (80% of corners are blind, 300m elevation change over the course) and kept the session fresh by mixing in video clips of horrendous crashes – flips, spins and write-offs galore! Once we’d all gone white in the face, he finished off by insisting we should try and have fun out there. Thanks, Jonathan!

We headed out with our instructor for the day, Erik, and a Renault Clio Cup – a sporty version of the car that 18 year olds love to start on [Ben: That’s a massively unfounded statement… ]. With Harvey behind the wheel, we set off on 12 miles of glorious German road. The Nürburgring is a public toll road where you can rock up, pay your €28 and take your lap on the track, and while we were going around on the instructed lap we were taken over by Alfas, BMWs, Porsches…basically everything! We don’t have any pics or videos from the track as they forbid filming – apparently it encourages racing behaviour!

Once Erik had taken us round once, he left us to it – one lap each, quick as you like. Ben (a.k.a Captain Slow) went first and immediately concluded “Good God, it’s a bit quicker than my Clio”! He took the track well, being brave through corners and accelerating hard out of them. He did so well, in fact, that I was feeling a little queasy in the back. After Ben, it was me, and as soon as I got on the track all the apprehension dropped away. I loved it! I took a good line through a few corners (the ones I could remember from the previous two laps) and only got confused once where a sharp left-hander appeared out of nowhere. No issue for me, but the guys started the nervous laughter nonetheless. Finally, it was Harvey, unleashed this time. And he flew! Ben and I held on for dear life as he thrashed the Clio around the track with fury. Hard acceleration, quick braking and sharp turning meant this was a tighter lap than mine or Ben’s and (we presume) a much quicker one as well. As he rolled into the pit lane at the end, we all had a mixture of kid-at-Christmas and adrenaline-fuelled fear on our faces, but it was obvious that this was an awesome idea and that we would definitely be coming back! For me, the hard thing was concentrating on so much. Cornering on the right line in the right gear and at the right speed is hard enough, but add to that the other cars on the track and trying to work out what they are doing, and it’s exhausting!

We popped back up to the office and got some pictures with the guys, before Jonathan stuck a massive RSR Nürburg decal on the car in half the time any of us could (the man has a natural flair for decals!) We said out goodbyes and headed out very slowly and carefully towards Frankfurt (where we we feasted on Turkish kebabs) and the end of Day 2

Mongol Rally 2012 – Day 1 – It Begins

Because we had decided to stay in Bristol the night before, Saturday needed to be a very early start – 6am, actually! The early hour was made much better by the very swift production of some bacon sandwiches by Harvey – the breakfast of champions, and the last British breakfast we’d be having for seven weeks! We rushed around like headless chickens trying to get our stuff together, and managed to get the stuff in the roof rack with a little bit of repacking. Soon enough, it was 8am (we wanted to leave at 7!) and we were ready to go. Bye bye, Bristol, hello…Tesco’s car park. Not one mile from our start point, we had to stop and fix the tarpauline on the roof rack! It wasn’t as tight as it should have been so with all the flapping about, it had already acquired a nice hole – but at least none of our stuff had fallen out of it!

Getting back on the road, the drive to Goodwood was pretty and uneventful, with the British countryside coming out in its finery to remind us what we were leaving behind. Clear skies and rolling green hills quickly turned into motorways and rain. Endless, unforgiving rain. On the minus side, our stuff was getting a bit wet up top, but on the plus side, it gave Ben a real chance to test out the car, fully laden, in difficult conditions.

10 miles out of Goodwood, we overtook the Sambi family on the motorway (how random!) and this led to the first of many spontaneous convoys we’re going to have on this trip, as we headed together to the most bonkers event we’ve ever seen. Arriving at Goodwood, we were greeted by a ‘Russian border guard’ who made sure we had bribing materials and then forced us to dance before letting us enter the car bays! We were one of the last groups in, so we rolled past the full set of cars before parking up, seeing things like the Polo Bear (a Polo that had been kitted out top to bottom in white fur) and an amazing team who had a team member in a wheelchair – this thing is going to be hard enough to two working legs, so we’re just in awe of the courage of that team!

Grabbing the registration materials, we walked past Mongolian wrestlers, musicians, more ‘border guards’ and a man in (just) a thong – this was obviously going to be a mad morning! The Dubocks and Gognas arrived soon enough and brought with them the rains. We all ducked for cover under the garages and then broke into the biggest picnic ever – sandwiches, samosas, home made pie and champagne…it was brilliant!

Harvey taking Over – It was a mad mad morning! We were given stickers and Ben and I fiddles, fondled and caressed the stickers neatly (with some air bubbles) onto the car. The car was looking epic now – plastered in a garb that screamed that we were about to do something Amazing. Obviously, when you’re about the head out to the great unknown with just a few tents, some cash and some basic tools things can get quite emotional and there were a lot of tearful goodbyes.

Eventually, it was time to go. We got in our car, the parents rushed around throwing last minute garb into the car. We were excited! We lined up the car to get on to the track for our celebratory ‘slow’ lap around the epic Goodwood circuit – but then disaster! In our excitement we were flicking our ginourmous Air Horn on and off and it stopped working! We were in a Queue of cars now and minutes from hitting the track – so we popped the hood and had a really quick look under the bonnet! There are 3 fuses which run off our 12V battery, one for the rally lights, one for the in car cig lighter and another for the air horn. I checked the fuse for the horn – and yup – completely gone. So I swapped the fuses over and hey presto  – the air horn was alive again. Just in case you’re wondering why it’s so important – it’s a bloody loud horn and you’re about to leave on a 10,000 mile journey, Yes – we needed it.

We all got back in the car – and within a few minutes we were on track. Luckily we were one of the first to set off. To our right were hundreds of parents and well-wishers  waving at us, cheering and generally being very excited! It was basically like the first scene from Titanic (but hopefully with a happy ending!). The man on the tannoy was shouting out things, car horns were going off all over the place. It was pandemonium – and suddenly we were released to do our lap around the circuit!

Ben here now- we cruised serenely around the course, horn blaring, weaving gently around the grand old racetrack. Within a couple of minutes we saw the first casualty of the rally – a car had pulled over with its hazard lights on to reclaim some lost luggage! Relieved that this wasn’t us – we powered on and all to soon were leaving the track, back onto the local A road. This presented our first navigational issue – in the excitement to start we had not sorted out our route to Folksone. We had no idea where to go! A quick and cunning solution printed itself- we should follow the cars in front that were turning right. After a mile or so, it seemed that no one else knew where they were going either! The entire convoy doubled back on itself to go back passed the  bemused marshals at Goodwood!

As its a long way to Mongolia, we decided that it was important to have frequent breaks – so stopped in at Ravi’s friend Georgie’s for a cup on tea in Brighton (10 miles from Goodwood). Extrapolating this tea/mile stat we will drink 800 cups of tea, or about 10 bath tubs before we get to Ulan Baatar. As we all like it – this bodes well!

After Brighton- we pushed for Folkstone . On a very delayed channel tunnel, we bumped into two more rally teams. We felt smug that we had booked a Hostel in Amsterdam and they were winging it. When we hit the road on the other side it we realised that there was no way we could make it to Amsterdam before 2am. This rubbed the smug look off our faces- we were now in the same position as the other teams – but 90EUR down. With some googling by Harvey, we found a guesthouse set outside Bruge (and deep in the 80’s), we had a bed, were more than knackered and hit the sack.

My Caffeine Withdrawal Symptoms

If you’re reading this page, you’coffee-3ve probably recently just cut caffeine out of your life and are currently experience the dreaded caffeine withdrawal symptoms! How did it get to this? As far as you knew, you were drinking a harmless cup of coffee every morning, and the one day you decide to give it up … and then it happens. The headaches, the fatigue, the aches, the itchy eyes, how can something so lovely turn out to be something so horrible!

How is it going for you right now? If you’ve read my previous post on “How to make the perfect cup of coffee with your Chemex” – you’ll know I love coffee. I bloody LOVE coffee. I started when I was about 7 when I would share my Dad’s cup of coffee. Back then it was instant – some might call, ‘weak’ coffee. Then the starbuck’s style coffee shops came along and I quickly graduated to the hard stuff, espressos. At university, it was still those days where it was uber cool to sit in a fancy starbucks and take up whole sofa for the day and spend £10 on the black stuff. Eventually, I realised I was drinking a lot of this stuff. I’d known it for a while, but starting a new job, piling on the pounds, and feeling generally unhealthy, made me quit.

That’s when I realised how addicted I was to it. The headaches were unbearable, the fatigue unlike anything I’d ever experienced before. I couldn’t function at work, everything in my mind became a fog – and honestly, I just couldn’t be arsed to do anything. I managed to do 4 days before having my first coffee. Going cold turkey was my first experience of what a Heroin addict must feel like in equal situations.

Obviously I didn’t stick to it and in no time I was back on the coffee (although in reduced amounts). I just love the taste so much.

The Symptoms

I’ve tried many times to give up caffeine (and by proxy coffee). Generally my caffeine dipendenza-da-caffeinaintake is this, 1 double shot espresso in the morning, and 2 to 3 cups of tea during the day. This is about 170mg a day. However if I work from home, it’s usually 4 cups of chemex coffee. Here are the common symptoms that always accompanied by me giving up:

 

 

SymptomDescription
FatigueThis one always happens. It's a fatigue which just knocks you off your feet. It's like your body has all of a sudden thinks you've not slept for a months and is now trying to catch up. The first day you quit caffeine, all you will want to do is to go to sleep. And if you do go to sleep, you will absolutely conk out. The fatigue is relentless and honestly, it never really went away from me. I'm currently into 1 week of not drinking coffee (I still drink tea) and I still get insanely tired during the day. I've not yet got to a point where I feel like I'm normal, but I hope it will happen this time!
Lack of concentrationIf you have anything important planned during the caffeine withdrawal period, forgot it. Your brain is going to limbo land. A dense fog will descend upon your mind and not leave for a while. Your brain basically seems to stop caring about anything (apart from sleeping). You will be lethargic and you will have no desire to do anything! For me, these symptoms usually last about 4-5 days. I'm now one week in and my brain still feels a bit crappy, but usually you find that your mind thinks a little bit clearer over time
HeadachesThese are horrible migraine like headaches! The first few days they are intense and they usually are worst behind the eyes. The combination of fatigue and headches contribute a lot to point 2, your head hurts so much, it becomes incredibly distracting and most people end up taking some painkillers for it. Painkillers thankfully do hurt. A week into my reduced caffeine period, the headache has become a dull pain, it's constant but I can tell it's starting to disappear.
Irritable eyes I haven't read this on any other site, but my eyes became very heavy. If it touched them, it would be painful. The worst part was how they never seemed to open fully. I would have to physically pry my eyes open to get them to open properly. Also, they would become more watery than normally. I basically looked like I was squinting all the time!
Depression & IrritabilityYou basically stop caring about the would and things become un-important. Also, I noticed that because you have low energy you become a nightmare to live with. You stop wanting to go out, you get bored of people's conversations, you want to lie in bed all day and watch crappy TV shows. I always get really irritable and become a big moany bastard. It's really not nice and honestly, I'm sick and tired of it.
Flu like symptomsAches and Pains - Thankfully this one only happens when you first start. You'll feel like you have the flu, I had a runny nose and my muscles in my leg always hurt. The first two times I tried to give up caffeine, it always seemed to coincide with a cold, I thought I was just unlucky, but it seems like caffeine withdrawal may be the culprit here.

The above symptoms are horrible. Honestly, there have been times when I’ve wanted to quit coffee and could never find the time when the effects above would not affect my work or relationship. So why bother? Why not just keep drinking coffee and not bother going through all of this?

The Science of Caffeine

I’m no scientist, but I am Indian and technically that makes me half a doctor and genetically I’m drawn to anything which is vaguely medical. First off, I’m of the opinion that anything which when you stop ‘doing it’ makes you feel physically worse and gives you symptoms similar to a heroin addict going cold turkey cannot be good for you. I don’t care what you say, that substance has altered your normal body chemistry and your body should function just fine without it. My girlfriend arugued that if you gave up water or food, you would equally be screwed, but food and water is essential for being ‘alive’. Caffeine isn’t.

Case_Study-_Caffeine_MoleculeSo how does caffeine work? Caffeine works in a number of ways. First, it stops your brain for registering a hormone which normally tells it to ‘slow down’ (more on this later). It also increases dopamine (which makes you feel happy) as well as acting as a vasoconstrictor. Not only this, it also increases adrenalin – which explains why you get that ‘on-edge’ feeling when you drink it. The sum total of these effects is that you don’t feel as sleepy, and you feel more alert and ready to do things. A warm cup of coffee after a boring meeting also makes me happy.

However, caffeine in small doses as a pick me up here and then is OK. As is everything in life. But when you continually have it everyday and in ever increasing amounts the caffeine will change your brain structure. Here’s how. Caffeine looks very very similar to a hormone called Adenosine. Your body releases this to effectively calm the neurones down so they don’t go crazy and keep firing at ever increasing rates. Adenosine is partly responsible for the sleepy feeling we get during the day. But it’s absolutely required and helps balance the neural activity in the brain.

Caffeine looks so similar to adenosine that it binds the the receptors that are looking out for them. However the key thing is that once caffeine binds to these receptors, it doesn’t produce the same effects as adenosine. When you drink coffee, caffeine stop the neurones from registering adenosine. Try drinking a double espresso at 9 in the evening and most people won’t be able to go sleep until 4 am in the morning. The reason for this is that caffeine has a half life of 6 hours, so at 9 pm, the sleep inducing adenosine can’t tell your brain to go to sleep, until finally at 3am, there’s enough free slots for the adenosine to slip in and finally send you to sleep.

Lets take a typical coffee drinker. He gets up and has his first drink. Mmmmm. He’s alert and rockin’. A few hours later, he has another coffee, and then another in the afternoon. During this time adenosine is being blocked in the brain. After a few weeks of this behaviour your brain is accutely aware that it’s not registering adenosine properly so manufactures more receptors. Your brain now becomes hyper-sensitive to adenosine. When you wake up in the morning, all the adensoine is absorbed very quickly and you feel drowsy. It’s only until you have your first cup of coffee that the receptors become blocked, and dopamine is released that you start to feel normal again.

Imagine this over years. Your brain now requires caffeine to be present to function normally, without caffeine, you feel drowsy, unable to ‘start’. Basically what’s happened now is that you need coffee to feel ‘normal’ again, not alert. To get that original ‘alert’ feeling you may have had when you first drank coffee, you would need to drink a lot.

When I walk to work, I see tons of people with lattes, flat whites etc and I just know that they are paying to feel normal. It’s so so easy to get to a position where coffee become normal, and I’ll be honest, It’s nice way to start the morning, a nice smooth hot cup of coffee. The question you have to ask is if you want to continue to be caffeine dependant. And to be honest, nobody has come up with a reason to disuade me that caffeine is fundamentally bad for you. Anybody who drinks a few cups of coffee a day doesn’t seem to be at any more risk of health problems than somebody who doesn’t.

So what’s my point? Personally for me, whenever I stop drinking coffee, I notice that my sleep dramatically improves and my mind becomes somewhat clearer. But, the benefits after a week or two seem to normalise and my sleep becomes a normal night’s sleep (rather than the deep sleep I was experiencing when I would first give up). There are blogs out there of people proclaiming that the effects of giving up caffiene dramatically changed their life, but for me, (after the symptoms disappeared) the change in my life was just a little better.

My view is that cutting caffeine slowly out of your life is a good thing, but having a few cups during the week is probably not a bad thing. My ultimate goal is to be able to miss a day without feeling terribly effected, but also to be able to enjoy the wonderful taste of coffee without feeling guilty.

How was your experience?